How to sew a layer of fabric - step by step instructions [+ video] (2023)

Step-by-step instructions for joining two pieces of knitwear using layer stitch, creating an invisible seam

If you want to join two pieces of knitting together, there is no way to learn mattress stitch. TheThe vertical seam technique creates an invisible seam.embedded between two piecesjersey knitor other stitch patterns with acorrect pointmust.

Normally you would use it for thisJoin the front and back of a sweatertogether. But you can also use it to sew a flat project together to make it look prettytied in rounds. However, the layer stitch creates a noticeable edge on the inside or back of your work.

Note: I am using contrast yarn for demonstration purposes only. And I earn a small commission for purchases made through the links in this article.

Let's get into it, shall we?

Advice:Check out my tutorialSew garter stitch with mattress stitchalso (the technique is similar but different).

The final layer stitch seam is almost invisible from the right side. It appears as a continuous line of stockinette stitches.

But there isa small seam on the left side. This seam will be longer if you don't join the first two rows of stitches, but rather the second or third row.

Although I don't usually recommend it, you can use it as a last resort to correct the size of an oversized sweater. Also, some stitch patterns don't make a nice border and you might be better off choosing the second column.

There are also bars between the Vs of knit stitches and between two knit stitches. It doesn't really matter which bar you choose, as long as you choose the same type of latch on both sides. And indeed, if you choose different bars on each side, the sea is still almost invisible (see image below).

Tips and tricks for a better mattress stitch

This sewing method is quite simple and straightforward. However, it's definitely a lot easier to join two pieces in stockinette stitch than more complicated designs or sophisticated yarns. Here are some tips:

1. Hold the seam between your fingers.

I usually hold the two pieces between my fingers (see picture above). This makes sewing together a layer stitch much easier and faster. This also allows you to bring it a little closer to your face, which also makes it a little easier to find the next line to cross.

2. Block the seam with pins.

Some threads are very fuzzy. Also, if you're holding two wool yarns at once (eg a nice base wool and some mohair yarn to add a nice halo),It can be extremely difficult to determine the next line.If there are a few more increases in between, it becomes even more difficult.

Therefore, you can fix the seam with pins. If you skip a bar, you probably won't notice in the end. When there is a large imbalance, will pucker your seam. But if you pin the seam beforehand, a) you'll notice it and b) you'll be able to adjust it.

3. Add a border stitch for the Fair Isle

Fair Isle or cloth fabrics generally do not leave the cleanest edge. Or rather, there's no edge where you can easily see the bars between a V. And even if you can, you often end up pulling a float or other thingsI could bust your seams.

This is why adding two stitches to the margins can be very helpful.Half of this edge stitch is not visible after sewingIn any case, it's less of a problem than you might think.

Use:The same is true if you have knits or other stitches with a purl stitch in the middle.

4. Be very careful when unstitching the mattress

Even if you are very careful, sometimes there are some missing bars and warped seams. One thing you really have to keep in mind is that everything going in and out puts a lot of strain on the thread. If you reverse the stitch one beta at a time, you will need to pull the entire length of yarn through each stitch again.This creates a lot of friction and has two effects:

1. becomeSlowly rub the essence of the sewing thread.(It will unravel and maybe even break.) Think of it this way: Every time you thread, you take a little hair with you. There are hundreds of them in a single thread. But if you go through it a hundred times, there's nothing left. Reuse could result in a structurally weak seam.
2. And I couldpossibly weaken the points at the edgeIn a similar way.

Instead, just remove the entire seam. Don't try to revise it. Just pull it until the entire seam loosens immediately.

If this is not possible (because you didn't use a separate sewing thread or because the seam is too long), cut the thread from time to time so you don't have to pull it all the way through each stitch.

5. Do not weave the ends through the back comb

One thing to keep in mind:The seam you create with a layer stitch doesn't give much.– as opposed to smooth stitching. One thing I see a lot is that peoplesew the edgesbeyond the edge of the seam. This makes it even stronger and deprives it of even more elasticity.

Depending on where the seam is, this may or may not be what you want. When it's not easyKnit the tail along the edges of the seamwithout reaching the other side.

Reading Tips:How to turn a circular pattern into a flat knit

Anyway. This is how the cushion stitch is created when knitting. Feel free to ask your questions in the comments below.